Late Spring – 2006
Hello from Jerusalem,
Yesterday, Saturday, my wife and I took an afternoon walk to the Old City. It was surprisingly busy, with Jewish people going to the Western Wall for Sabbath prayers and tourists thronging shops and other holy sites. When we first arrived in Jerusalem we couldn’t walk down the narrow shop-lined lanes of the Old City without hearing, “Hello friend. See my shop. No need to buy anything. (yeah, right) Hello, Hello! Where are you from?” Yesterday, we got none of that. I think we’re familiar to many locals by now. Not being bugged to buy made the walk more fun. I even dared a few glances into stores!
Our first stop was the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. A shame it’s been ages since we’ve gone there. We live a 30 minute walk from the holiest shrine in Christendom, yet we seldom visit anymore (we go to church in the Garden of Gethsemane). Of all the local churches, it feels the least church-like, more like a castle or some decrepit old museum. Also, with the politicization of the Jerusalem Patriarchate, and the perpetually rocky relationships between the denominations sharing the building: Greek, Catholic, Armenian, Coptic, Ethiopian, and Assyrian, visiting can be more depressing than inspiring. Yesterday, however, it was fun and upbeat, interesting and humorous, like visiting an aging grandparent, full of interesting stories, but unaware of her foibles and funny habits. Continue reading


